To alter the armchair by yourself: exterior finish

If the old chair has lost its appearance andfunctional qualities, you can try to restore it instead of recycling. It is necessary to alter the chair with their own hands until the moment when the degree of its wear and tear reaches its limit. Armchair draw-out schemeScheme of the neck of the chair Restoring the furniture is an exciting activity, not too complicated, but it takes a lot of time.

Types of alteration of the chair

Since the degree of damage to furniture is different,the types of its restoration and alterations also differ in the degree of their complexity. If the chair, with the loss of appearance, began to wobble with time, it means that it will be necessary to change the stud joints, which have dried up from time to time. It is necessary to inspect the chair: if the contacts of the grooves and studs are weakened, they can be easily removed from the nests, therefore, the size of the spike should be increased, the power jumpers should be replaced. In this case the chair will need a bulkhead completely. If the frame is kept well, and the problem is only in appearance, you may need to replace the cover. The wooden details of the chair are always varnished, so that the tree is better preserved. To replace the varnish layer, the old one must first be carefully removed, and the parts can be additionally applied with paint or covered with patterns. Tools necessary for work: screwdriver, wrench, safety pins, pliers, screwdriver. Carved and stucco elements often well complement the chairs after restoration and alteration. Work to replace the coating takes time, patience and accuracy. In order not to damage the upholstery fabric, the chair is sometimes completely disassembled. The simplest kind of restoration is the tightening of the upholstery on the armchair. Upholstered furniture is transformed beyond recognition, when a worn old cloth is replaced with a new one, and the upholstery no longer sags and keeps the shape well. With tools available for a day, an experienced person copes even faster. Back to contents</a>

Preparation of the chair: tools and materials

For a complete bulkhead of the time chair and toolit will take a lot. All the details need to be well sanded, removing the build up of dirt and grease on them, sometimes it needs to be washed in warm soapy water and dried. The old varnish and the paint will partially disappear during washing. Taking an iron brush, you can speed up this process and even remove the coating completely, but you still need to grind the parts. In order to alter the chair, the following elements are necessary:

  • foam rubber, sintepon, latex for a new filler;
  • dense upholstery of good quality;
  • scissors;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • a hammer;
  • screwdriver and screws;
  • a furniture stapler and special staples for it;
  • sandpaper or grinding wheel with a grinding wheel;
  • Clamps;
  • metal clamps;
  • joiner glue;
  • paint, stain, solvent, nitrolac and suitable paint brushes.
  • If you do not need all the operations to re-arrange the chair, some of the tools responsible for them can be excluded. Back to contents</a>

    How to dismantle an armchair?

    Tool for disassembling the chair on the partit is almost not required, since the backrest and armrests need to be weakened even more and removed, putting some effort and trying not to break the wooden spikes. Even if they sit weakly in the nests, extracting debris is always more difficult than a whole detail. Remove the joints with a hammer wrapped in a soft cloth, or a special rubber mallet. Strong joints are disassembled with extreme caution, since it is there that it is easiest to break fasteners. Repair scheme of the old chair. Some connections in the chairs are fastened with screws with torn or adhered thread. Unscratchable screws can be softened by dripping them with technical oils, and the torn threads must be removed using pliers using force. In order not to be confused in the future, all extracted parts and fasteners are immediately marked. The glued connections help to separate hot water. In it, I moisten a rag and put it on a non-sticking place of gluing, repeating the process until the glue gets wet and the parts do not separate. It is possible to help disengagement by a thin knife, gradually pushed into the slot. If the remnants of the glue and the unreliable element are in a hard-to-reach place, you can act trickier. A rubber hose is put on the tip of the kettle, a steam jet is sent to the seam. This softens even the tightest joints, after 1-2 minutes the parts can be disconnected. Back to contents</a>

    Inspection and restoration of wooden parts

    All the elements of the chair after parsing, removing the upholstery,washing and sanding should be carefully inspected. The existing cracks are glued, tightly tightening the clamps. Smaller defects after gluing well holds paper tape. If the parts are round and large, metal clamps will come to the rescue. Unnecessary holes and chips are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. Restoration and alteration of the chair will not succeed if the glue does not dry up and does not grasp properly. Therefore, the drying is not less than 2 days. Then there is a final grinding of the details of the chair using sandpaper of different fractions. The surface should be perfectly smooth. Back to contents</a>

    Sizing and assembling parts

    Scheme of the cover for the chair. Places of gluing and joints are carefully examined again. The dried parts are wrapped with a bandage, dense coils with gluing on each turn to give them the right volume. If the legs do not sit more in their nests, they need to be wedged. For this, a slot is drilled at the end, a wooden wedge is driven into it, thin, but wide. Thus, the diameter of the butt will be increased and the legs of the chair will sit firmly in their nests. This is suitable for those models of seats where the legs are inserted directly into the seat board. But if the seat of another model is altered, in which there are seals under the seat and crossbeams between the legs, the process is different. The most difficult option is a rocking chair. These parts are connected by spikes to each other and additionally reinforced with glue. In the weakened seams of this kind, the glue is injected by means of a syringe through a thin hole drilled from the inside. And if the spike itself is withered from the time, thin wedges are added in the form of specially planed chips or matches. They dipped in the glue and, together with the thorn, they hammer into the nest. The outer seat can be additionally secured using special metal corners to give the frame special strength and durability. Completely disassembling and gluing such complex joints, trapezoidal bars are screwed onto the inner corners of the frame using screws. In this design, even small inconsistencies will skew the chair even worse than before, so the frame and ends of the bars should coincide perfectly. The glue at assembly is better seized under pressure, therefore the skeleton is pulled together by clamps and clamps with obligatory observance of a strict parity of corners. The adhesive that has emerged from the joints is removed with a cloth, wiping the parts dry. The frame is 2 days, after which you can proceed to the final finishing of the chair. Back to contents</a>

    External carcass finish: upholstery replacement

    The product frame is primed or coveredstylist, you can paint by hand, burn or use decoupage. It is obligatory for any chosen method to put several layers of varnish on top, giving each time to dry. The more thin layers of lacquer laid on a tree, the better it looks, if there are no bubbles and other irregularities. To achieve good laying of layers, varnish is laid thinly and well dried, sometimes using a hair dryer. Then proceed to fixing the new upholstery on the chair. Foam cut out on the contour of the seat, backrest and armrests with a sharp knife. Upholstery fabric is also cut according to the shape of the seat, backrest and armrests, but at the same time add allowances to the seams (folding) and the thickness of the filler. The cut out fabric is put on the table or the floor face down, on it put the filler. Turn the fabric inside, fix it with a few stitches and transfer to the frame of the chair, starting from the seat. The edges are attached with a stapler, pulling and leveling the surface of the fabric. If the furniture stapler is not near at hand, you can use a hammer and special upholstery nails with a wide decorative hat. The same operations are repeated with the backrest and armrests, trying to fix the fabric as tightly as possible to each other. Some models with filler of increased volume require first fixing on the details of the upholstery, and then engage in assembly. But at home, this option is better not to choose, since the strength of the connections will inevitably suffer.