Features of laying the laminate: ways and stages

It is possible to make a laminate floor covering indoors and quickly enough. This work is possible even for an unprepared person. With the help of laminate it is possible to create a strong,beautiful and reliable flooring. The cutting of the material is very simple. Thanks to this, even in a room with a complex configuration, the laminate can be laid easily and quickly. The main thing in this work is to take into account all the features of laying the laminate and the recommendations of the producers of this coating.

Substrate preparation for laminate flooring

Do-it-yourself features require careful preparation and leveling of the base for it. They can be served by:

• cement-sand screed;
• linoleum;
• tree;
• ceramic tile.

Scheme of a concrete floor screed.It is possible to lay the laminated flooring on the cement-sand screed only after it is completely dry, and this takes 25-30 days after it has been poured. The condition of the old cement-sand screed must be checked, and if there are minor cracks or irregularities, then fill them up with a self-leveling mixture. If it is significantly damaged, the screed must be removed and a new one made. Next, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is laid on the screed with an overlap of 20-25 cm and an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls, while the joints are fixed with tape. If the base is a "dry screed", then it is not necessary to lay the vapor barrier film on top, since such a screed already provides for a vapor barrier layer. The wooden base must be of good quality, not damaged by mold and pests. Loose floorboards are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws. Irregularities and differences can be eliminated by scraping. Severely damaged elements of the wooden floor are completely disassembled and replaced with new ones. Plywood laying scheme.Wood and concrete bases can be leveled with chipboard or staggered plywood. It is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier substrate on a wooden base, but it is necessary to make a soundproof one. If ceramic tiles or linoleum are laid in compliance with all the rules, then they are quite suitable as a base for laminated flooring. These bases also do not need vapor barrier, and by laying the substrate down, you can immediately. Back to the table of contents</a>

When can not laminate be laid?

Wrong way of laying the laminate. Laminated floors are not a universal coating, and there are a number of features when laying a laminate, when it can not be laid:

• they can not be laid on the carpet;
• Do not laminate the floor in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms, sauna);
• in no case it can not be laid on an electric "warm floor";
• Do not glue the laminate to the base.

For the corridor and kitchen, select the appropriate wear class. Back to contents</a>

Materials and tools for laying laminate

Tools for laying laminate: Tools for laying laminate.

• electric jigsaw;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• a building corner;
• pencil;
• a hammer;
• staple for laying laminate;
• wooden bar.

For laying a laminate, you need materials such as:

• laminate;
• primer;
• substrate for laminate;
• polyethylene film 200 microns (for laying on concrete);
• wedges for the device of technological backlashes between a laminate and walls;
• plinth and fastening for it;
• joiner glue.

Buy laminate should be with some margin. Despite the fact that its assembly is simple, mistakes are allowed quite often and several elements can be spoiled. Basically, such troubles occur when the slats need to cut out the parts for communication or the bends of the wall. To ensure clearances between the wall and the laminateit is necessary to use wedges. Finished wedges for providing gaps between the wall and the floor covering can be bought in the building shop or use pieces of boards, plasterboard or trimming laminate. The technological gap should be approximately 10-15 mm. Adhesive is used to secure the adhesion of the elements of the laminated flooring in the locks. Do not glue the laminate directly to the surface of the substrate. But you can lay this floor covering and without the use of glue. After purchasing the material, he should be allowed to lie down in the room where the floor covering will be laid, for 1-2 days to adjust its temperature and humidity. Back to contents</a>

Stages of laying laminate flooring

Layout of laminate flooring.

Prepare the base of the floor, clean it from dust and debris and thoroughly primer it (if the concrete is base) or treat it with an antiseptic (if the base is wooden).

Lay the vapor barrier film on the concrete surface of the floor with an overlap of 20 cm, pasting all joints with adhesive tape.

Lay the substrate of expanded polystyrene. It can be laid not on the whole floor, but only on the part where the lamella is laid at the moment, and as you progress, lay the substrate further. So its integrity and purity will be preserved. Begin laying the laminate from the window. The substrate should be found on the walls for 2-3 cm for depreciation. Joints between stripes of a substrate stick adhesive tape. If the laminate already contains a substrate, the foamed polyethylene should not be laid under it, but only the waterproofing film.

First cover the lacquer, beginning with the cornerroom, where the window. Between the lamellas and the wall, pegs must be inserted to provide a technological gap, since the material of the laminate floor is "breathing" and is able to expand. One lamella is brought to the other at a slight angle and inserted into the lock. If at the end of the row does not fit the whole of the lamellae, a cut piece of it is attached. Do not forget about the gaps.

The next row should be started withthe remaining piece of lamella (if it is not less than 30 cm) or half of the new cover element. First, all the elements of the next row are joined to each other and fit to the first row without snapping the lock. When the entire row is docked with the previous one, then, slightly lifting the second row, it must be taken into the lock until it stops and snap it along the entire length. The hammer should be used only when the lock is not fully latched in some places. It is necessary to attach a wooden block to the butt end of the lamellae and tap it lightly with a hammer until the laminate rows converge completely.

Adhering to the above rules and features when laying the laminate with your own hands, lay it on the entire floor.

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Diagonal laying of laminate

There are various, among which there is a largediagonal styling is popular. So you can visually increase the space of the room, make it wider. The diagonal laying of the laminate entails an increase in its consumption by about 7-8% of the usual laying. Variants of laying laminate.

Prepare the bottom of the floor, as described above.

From the angle from the window side, pull the line at an angle of 45 ° with respect to the walls. It will allow you to control the process of laying the laminate coating.

At the first strip of lamellas, cut off the edge with an electric jigsaw at an angle of 45 °. Lay it on the substrate and leave the thermal gap by inserting the wedges.

Fasten the next 2 strips of lamella to each other. Their joint should be in the center of the first lamella. Cut edges also at 45 °. Between them and the wall leave gaps.

Lay the laminate on the floor. You can navigate through the line and lay out first all the whole lamellas, and then make a trimming of the slats and fill them with plots near the walls.

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Bypassing the protrusions of walls and pipes

Scheme laying the laminate near the projections of pipes. If the lamella rests against a turn or protrusion of the wall, then it must be cut with an electric jigsaw of the corresponding shape of the projection. If the ledge is a plastic or plasterboard casing, it is better to trim the bottom of the lining and insert the lamellae under it, bringing it to the wall and leaving the technological gap. For this, you can make a change in the lamella lock. Cut the protruding edge on the bottom of its end. So do not need to lift the entire element to lock the lock. Although the strength of the connection will be reduced. Therefore, the joints of the lamellas, before they join, glue with glue. To trim the lamellae under the heating pipes on it, you need to mark the location of the pipes along the width. After this, attach the lamella on the side to the pipe and put it against the wall, inserting the peg. So it is possible to mark on the lamella the distance from the pipe to the wall. The intersection of these marks determines the location for the hole for the pipe. Use drill-ballerinas to drill this hole. Their diameter should exceed the diameter of the pipe. Back to contents</a>

Completion of laying the laminate with your own hands and installation of skirting boards

Scheme of installation of plastic skirting boards on a laminate. When the laminate flooring is finished, remove all the pegs and trim the edges of the substrate if they protrude strongly. The amortization belt of the substrate should be 1-2 cm. Now you can proceed with the installation of skirting boards. This is the final stage of floor covering. The skirting board is not fixed to the laminate. Mount it should be to the wall. There are different types of skirting, so they have different mountings. It is important to follow the instructions of the manufacturer of skirting boards. If the walls are not perfectly even, then it is better to use a plastic skirting board, since it is able to repeat the contour of the wall and not form a gap that spoils the whole appearance. Wooden skirting boards should be used only if the walls are perfectly level. If you are laying wires in the plinth, they need to be fixed in special grooves so that they do not get into the gap between the laminate and the wall. Cut-outs in lamellas for pipes can be covered with special decorative contours.

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