Nowadays, plasterboard has become one of the mostcommon building materials. It is used both in private and industrial construction. In the process of finishing interior spaces, the question often arises of how to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands.
Plasterboard wall diagram.The ease of processing of plasterboard allows its use in different interior options. It allows you to diversify the ceiling and walls in the house. Zoning the room is easy to do if you decide how to make a plasterboard wall.
Drywall Wall Construction
When used indoors, plasterboardhas a number of advantages. The sheets are very easy to process - you can cut any shape from them. The sheets are fixed in almost any standard way - glue, mastic, screws, etc. The material is quite light in weight. After installation, plasterboard creates the impression of solidity. Its surface is easy to decorate. is usually an interior wall and is located inside the room. The design of such a wall includes a frame; plasterboard sheathing, in which a doorway or simply an opening for passage is made; cladding and decorative coating.
Tools for installing plasterboard.The simplest frame can be made of a wooden beam of the required thickness. Recently, a frame made of a metal profile has found wider application. Ceiling and partition profiles of a U-shape are produced especially for plasterboard. Partition profiles are divided into guide and rack. Guide profiles of the PN type are produced in four sizes - 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x50 mm. The standard length is 3 m. Rack profiles are produced by the PS brand and also have four sizes - 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm. The width of the PS and PN profiles must match. Rack profiles are available in lengths of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. Wall cladding can be made from one or more sheets of plasterboard. A single-layer partition is made extremely rarely. A two-layer wall implies that a filler (sound insulation, thermal insulation, etc.) can be placed between the cladding sheets. An opening for passage is made in the wall cladding. If necessary, a window opening is made in the plasterboard wall. Wall cladding made of plasterboard includes filling the surface and applying decorative coatings. In addition, the ends of the cladding in the openings are processed and decorated. The material also has significant disadvantages that should be taken into account when working with it. First of all, this is low resistance to impact loads and bending. The edges of the sheet (especially the corners) are easily damaged when in contact with hard objects. The material requires careful transportation. Return to contents</a>
Preparing for the wall
Scheme of joint puttying.The floor, ceiling and walls must have final plastering in place. It is necessary to check the evenness of the surface. If there are any defects, they must be eliminated (remove bulges, fill in holes). The verticality of the walls is checked with a plumb line. The marking of the wall to be installed begins with the side walls of the room. The required distance is measured from the wall with the window and marked at the bottom on the wall. Through the mark, a line is drawn perpendicular to the floor along the side wall to the ceiling. Similarly, marking is applied to the opposite side wall. The lines are connected by marking along the ceiling and floor. This line will be the inner boundary of the wall to be installed. Profiles are laid out horizontally on the floor according to the dimensions of the future frame. The plasterboard is laid out and marked according to the laid frame. The openings are marked. Return to the table of contents</a>
Wall frame installation
Installation of a frame made of metal profilesbegins with the installation of the guide profile on the ceiling. The profile is fastened along the marked line using dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the profile every 40-50 cm and through them the holes are marked in the ceiling. Holes are punched in the ceiling using a hammer drill along the marks. Dowels are inserted. The guide profile is fastened with screws. The surface of the profile adjacent to the ceiling is glued with sealing tape before fastening. The guide profile is fastened to the floor in a similar way, but taking into account the doorway. The horizontal installation of the guide profiles is checked with a level.
Scheme of fastening of metal frame underplasterboard. After fixing the guides, the rack profiles are installed according to the markings on the side walls. They are fixed with anchors in the same way as the guide profiles. The verticality is checked with a plumb line. If it is necessary to correct the verticality, thin spacers are placed under them. Then, the vertical supports are installed from the rack profiles. The first profile is fixed at a distance of 55 cm from the profiles fixed to the wall; subsequent supports are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other (the distance is measured to the center of the profile). At the top and bottom, they are fixed to the guide profiles with flea screws. During installation, the verticality of the profiles is checked with a plumb line. The doorway is formed from the rack profiles. For this, two vertical posts from this profile are fixed from the floor to the ceiling, and at the required height, a lintel made of the same material is fixed horizontally to them. If a door frame is not planned in the future, then the profiles that form the doorway should be reinforced with a wooden block, which is fixed inside the profile with screws. The width of the block corresponds to the width of the profile.
Nomenclature of profiles for gypsum boards.If the frame structure is not strong enough, then one or more crossbars made of a guide profile should be installed. To strengthen the frame (if necessary), intermediate wooden beams can be used, which can be fixed both vertically and horizontally. When choosing the size of metal profiles, the strength of the future wall should be taken into account. The best results are achieved when using profiles 100 mm wide, but the most common material is 65 mm wide. When making a simplified frame entirely from wooden beams, the principle of its assembly is practically no different from the installation of a frame from a metal profile. It is advisable to connect the beams together using furniture corners. Return to contents</a>
Facing one side of the wall
After installing the wall frame, you can move ondirectly to its manufacture from plasterboard. Depending on where the wall is located, you should choose the brand of material. In most cases, regular gypsum board is suitable. However, if a partition is being formed for a bathroom, then GKLV should be used.
Scheme of fastening plasterboard sheet to the frame.The first sheet of plasterboard is usually not cut in width and is installed close to the side wall of the room. The sheet is either cut off in length (if it is 3 m long) or a piece from another sheet is added. The plasterboard is cut with a construction knife. The next sheet is cut to size, taking into account the openings. At the joints of the sheets, a chamfer is made with an angle of slightly more than 20 °. It is best to use a special plane for this purpose, but a file can also be used. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 x 35 mm. First, the edges in the corner of the plasterboard are fastened, and then the edges in the middle and along the lines of contact with the frame. The distance between the screws is 10-25 cm. The screws are screwed in until the head is immersed in the cardboard. An important condition is that the plasterboard is installed with a gap to the floor of about 10-15 mm. This is how one side of the frame is faced. Return to contents</a>
Filling the space between the cladding
The next stage is filling.spaces between the cladding sheets. All the necessary electrical wires are collected in a bundle and placed in a corrugated tube. Holes for the socket and switch are made in the right places. The ends of the wires are brought to these places. The tube with wires is carefully placed and secured inside the frame. To pass it through the frame profiles, a hole with a diameter of 30-35 mm is drilled in them. Then soundproofing and thermal insulation are carried out. For this, the space inside the frame is filled with mineral wool. It is recommended to use this material in the form of a roll. This way it is easier to evenly distribute it over the entire area of the wall. The wool is laid tightly without free spaces between the vertical posts of the frame. Instead of wool, you can use foam sheets. This material is easy to cut into the desired strips, which can be tightly placed between the profiles. Foam has good soundproofing and thermal insulation properties. Return to contents</a>
Finishing the cladding
After filling the space inside the frameyou can cover the second side of the wall with plasterboard. Laying and fixing the sheets is done in the same way as the first side. It should be noted that if the sheet is not long enough in height, it is advisable to add plasterboard at the bottom.
Physical and technical characteristicsplasterboard sheets. The final formation of the door surface is carried out using putty. To do this, first, a mounting mesh (serpyanka) is laid at the joints of the sheets (where the chamfers are made). The place of its installation is carefully coated with glue. The width of such seams is about 10 cm. The irregularities that appear in the seams are leveled with the surface of the sheet using a starting putty. Then, the finishing putty is applied over the entire surface of the wall in order to level the place where the screws are screwed in. It will also become a good base for decorative wall cladding. After the putty dries, the surface is cleaned with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh. The ends in the openings are sealed in a similar way. Such a wall is ready for the application of any decorative coating: paint, wallpaper, plastic. Return to contents</a>
Tools and equipment
To make plasterboard walls yourself, you will need the following tools:
- Screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- perforator with drill;
- a set of putty knives;
- scissors for metal;
- hacksaw;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- a hammer;
- mallet;
- knife building;
- roulette;
- the meter line;
- set of drills.
Drywall is a very convenient building materialmaterial. It is easy and pleasant to work with. The question of how to make a plasterboard wall yourself is solved by quite accessible methods at home.
