Many people need to fence off a certain part of the apartment. For example, a child was born or the children (a boy and a girl) grew up, and they cannot be left in one bedroom.
Scheme of the device of a wall from plasterboard.To separate any part of an apartment, balcony, room or house, you can build plasterboard walls with your own hands. You only need to install them in the correct sequence.
Advantages and disadvantages of construction
Pros:
Physical and technical characteristics of gypsum plasterboard sheets.
Negative aspects:
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Construction: elements and materials
Types of profiles for plasterboard. When forming and it is necessary to know and take into account many small nuances. For example:
- what profile for GCR to use in this or that case;
- what size (minimum and maximum) can be the cells of the framework;
- how to properly fix individual elements;
- other.
Only under this condition will you have a durable, strong and reliable wall structure. For installing drywall with your own hands, you will need the following basic materials:
Scheme for calculating plasterboard for a wall.To erect the wall, use 12.5 mm thick gypsum board. The other dimensions are standard and therefore are not taken into account. The sheet must have a special chamfer on the sides. The color of the material depends on the place where the structure is installed:
- for the bathroom or kitchen use a moisture-resistant green or bluish gyro;
- for ordinary rooms - grey or white plasterboard sheets.
Some walls and partitions are blockedpassages (corridors, doors). Such walls are provided with openings that are formed at the stage of frame assembly. If it is necessary to install a door or window in the opening, the structure is reinforced with wooden slats or beams. For reliability, the beam is usually inserted into the profile or screwed to it with self-tapping screws. Return to contents</a>Metal profiles and additional fasteners
Types of plasterboard edges.These elements deserve special mention. In order for your wall structure to be correct, reliable and strong, you need to form and assemble a frame of metal U-shaped elements, called profiles, which are intended for gypsum board. Their usual length is 3 or 6 meters. There are only two other standard sizes:
Both of these sizes are available:
Tools for installing plasterboard.The frame assembly can be carried out using all types of profiles simultaneously, or using just one of them. For example, only the supporting or only the guiding ones. If the assembly is carried out using several types, then it is necessary to insert the supporting profile "C" into the bearing "U", and not vice versa. In practice, the following options are used:
- 100 mm - maximum;
- 75 mm - average;
- 50 mm - minimum.
- 50 mm - minimum;
- 75 mm - average;
- 100 mm - max.
A special “UA” profile is also used -reinforced version of "CW". Its walls are much thicker. For a regular partition (up to 100 mm), the "UW" and "CW" versions are used, and for a wide one - "UD" and "CD". In the second case, to ensure the required width, two frames are installed and connected with perpendicular stiffeners from the same profiles. Additional fasteners are:
- conventional hangers;
- hangers are universal (called crabs), if there is no crab, then mount the frame with self-tapping screws and simple ones, and with a tip like a conventional drill;
- plastic dowels - for attaching your partition to the wall.
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Layout of surfaces under the future wall
Scheme of installation of plasterboard on metalprofile. If you are marking out an inhabited apartment, you can do it directly on the wallpaper (paint) on the walls, on the ceiling and on the floor. If the partition is temporary - parquet or other covering can be left on. If it is installed for a long time, it is advisable to dismantle the covering and attach the lower guide to the concrete. When marking out an unfinished room (you bought a frame apartment, for example), it is desirable that the floor is leveled (with screed), and the walls are plastered. But this is not always necessary. Especially if you are installing a permanent wall. The main thing is to properly secure the guides and risers, and the rest will be covered with drywall. First, you need to decide on the position of the future wall. To do this, you need to:
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Assembly and installation of the frame
When assembling, the following sequence of execution is required:
Assembly diagram of profiles for plasterboard installation.
Under all support profiles, directlymounted on the ceiling, floor and side walls, it is necessary to put a special sealing tape underneath. To increase the rigidity of the structure, you can insert crossbars. They are easier to insert if you have made the entire frame with a "UW" profile. When using "CW" elements, their bent edge will need to be cut and bent in places where the crossbars will be installed, for a tighter fit. To evenly distribute the verticals, use the following method:
- at a distance of 0.5-0.55 m from both supporting walls set up two verticals;
- measure the distance between them and calculate the number of racks so that the distance between them does not exceed 0.6 m.
Example: the width of the room is 5 m.After installing two verticals, 4 m will remain: 5-0.5-0.5 = 4 m. Then we determine the maximum length (less than 0.6 m), by which 4 m can be divided without a remainder. This is 0.5 m: 4/0.5 = 8 intervals. 7 posts will be installed in 8 intervals. Return to contents</a>
Forming openings
Scheme for applying glue to plasterboard walls:.(a- for even walls, b- for uneven walls). If you are installing a wall in a renovated apartment, and your project provides for a door or passage, then the frame is made like this:
- mark the place of the opening on the floor guide;
- strengthen it with dowels so that they do not hit the marked spot;
- mount the main verticals near the walls and two racks along the edges of the opening;
- cut off a piece of the bottom guide where there will be a passage.
- if it is planned to install a door, it is desirable to strengthen the passage profiles with additional posts 20-30 cm from the verticals of the opening and cross-bars;
- then the upper guide for the door frame or door is reinforced;
- further in the vertical of the opening and in the upper profile of the door insert wooden beams (reinforcement) and fix them with screws;
- to these beams nail or screw the door frame or strengthen the door hinges on them (depends on the design).
In case of installation of a wall with an opening in an apartment, wherethere is no coupler yet, the lower guide can be left as is and not cut. The opening for the window is made in the same sequence. The difference is that the lower profile is not cut. To form the base of the window frame, a crossbar is mounted at a height of 75-90 cm from the floor, into which a beam is inserted for reinforcement. Further actions are the same as described above. Return to contents</a>
Processing and fixing of GCR
Scheme of plasterboard joint filling.After the frame is fully formed and assembled, the process of installing gypsum board sheets on it begins. Gypsum board has three main dimensions, which differ only in length. The width is standardized and is 1200 mm. The lengths are 2000 mm, 2500 mm and 3000 mm. The most common version on sale is the 2500 mm size. The first and last sheets adjacent to the wall of the apartment have a chamfer cut off (bevel on the side), and the sheets themselves are installed on the profiles at a distance of 2-3 mm from the wall. This is done to strengthen the end side of the gypsum board (when filling the gap with putty) and to ensure reliable adhesion of the sheet to the wall. The cut strip (with chamfer) can be up to 5 cm wide. A construction knife (for gypsum board) with a retractable blade is used to cut gypsum board. Separation occurs as follows:
- A sheet of plasterboard is laid on a flat plane with the back side;
- outline the cut line with a pencil or "paste";
- apply a flat bar or ruler;
- Cut cardboard from the back;
- break off the line and cut the paper from the other side.
To ensure reliable adhesion of the sheets at their edges, you canmake a chamfer (bevel). When installed, a recess is created which, when filled with putty, will securely connect the sheets fixed to the frame. The side chamfer is made using a special device - a plasterboard plane. The plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame with special self-tapping screws. First, the edges are fixed, and then the middle part of the sheets. The screw heads should be deepened into the plasterboard by 0.5-1 mm. To avoid deformation of the sheet, screws are screwed in alternately every 20-25 cm. The sheets should be fixed with some offset:
Scheme of fastening a metal frame under plasterboard.
- set the first sheet and attach it to the frame;
- measure the piece to the ceiling, cut the GCR and attach it to where it should be;
- The second sheet is raised under the ceiling and screws are screwed;
- The empty space left at the bottom is covered with a corresponding piece of gyro.
- The other sheets of both sides are also reinforced with offset.
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Tools and materials
- GCR;
- roulette;
- rope, plumb line;
- level;
- knife, metal scissors;
- screwdriver.
After the frame is sheathed, all joints and surfaces are filled with putty.</ ul>
