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Filling floors with own hands: technology, tools (video)

Latest changes in filling technologypolymer floors made it possible to use them not only for industrial facilities, but also for the arrangement of private properties. From the many options for decorative flooring, you can always choose the one that will correspond to the expected loads and type of room. When creating, the interior of the house is necessarily transformed and becomes prettier. This happens due to the magnificent design of the self-leveling floor, which is formed by interspersing bright elements, patterns of quartz sand and original drawings.Filling floorSelf-leveling floors are very popular due to their impact resistance and relative cheapness.

Technology of creating polymeric floors

The technical process of pouring polymer floors is not very complicated, but when laying them yourself, questions still arise:

  • how to dissolve cement mortar;
  • how to prepare the foundation;
  • how to perform 3D floors;
  • what tools are needed.

Using quartz sand you can createoriginal designs on the self-leveling floor. Self-leveling floors require the creation of a high-quality subfloor. It has a great influence on the behavior of the finishing coating during operation, service life and compliance with technical standards. The optimal option for a subfloor for a self-leveling floor is a concrete screed. The main thing is that it does not have cracks and the humidity before pouring does not exceed 4%. The procedure for creating polymer floors is divided into several stages:

  • Pour the cement screed or remove the top layer from the old concrete pavement by grinding.
  • Mixing of the grout with an admixture of special additives.
  • Pouring of polymer coating using beacons, delimitation plates for separation of colored elements, with the device of temperature seams.
  • The aging of the sexes is from 5 to 7 days for a set of sufficient strength.
  • Grinding of the upper layer and subsequent polishing with a manual or floor grinder with abrasive materials of various modifications.
  • Cleaning of the finished surface and, if desired, finishing treatment.
  • Self-leveling floors consist of cement mortar andspecial filler. The device of a concrete base requires cement and sand. Sand can be replaced with expanded clay, screenings, crushed stone. Return to the table of contents</a>

    How to Install Beacons for a Concrete Base

    To create a screed and a polymer floor, you need construction tools, which include:Beacons for concrete foundations are made from perforated profiles.

    • solution tank;
    • beacons from perforated profiles;
    • rule;
    • laser and building level;
    • Master OK;
    • putty knife;
    • aeration roller;
    • roulette;
    • squeegee;
    • stakes;
    • a trowel;
    • thread for marking;
    • buckets.

    Creation of a substrate in the form of a concrete screedbegins with filling the crushed stone cushion. For the same purpose, you can use screenings, expanded clay or sand. All this will serve as a good base for the screed and as insulation. The backfill is made in an even layer, without leaving any depressions or bald spots on the surface. The thickness of the cushion depends on the required height of the future screed, the unevenness of the base and the material used. The minimum layer of sand for backfilling is 2 cm, screenings - 3 cm. Expanded clay or crushed stone layers must be made thicker due to the large particles in their composition. After the backfilling process is complete, the cushion is carefully leveled and carefully tamped.For mixing cement it is best to usea stationary concrete mixer, as this will save time when carrying out the work. The upper boundary of the concrete base is marked along the entire length of the room using a spirit level. You can make markings in the corners and beat off even boundaries with a cord or stretch it along the level as a limiter. To install beacons, a strip of cement mixture is made and a perforated profile is laid on top. The solution that has penetrated into the gaps hardens and firmly holds the beacons. Beacons are set along the marking contours of the cord or along a stretched thread. Using a rule or a long building level, you need to check the evenness of the beacons. The gap between them should be shorter than the rule by 10-15 cm. Before pouring, you need to wait about a day for the solution to set under the beacons. Return to the table of contents</a>

    How to make a mortar yourself and pour concrete screed

    Mixing of cement mixture can be done inconcrete mixer or manually, using a container for the solution and a shovel. The number of components depends on the brand of cement. For one bucket of cement grade 400, 4 buckets of sand are required, for cement grade 500, 5 buckets are needed. The ratio of the components changes when using screenings. Here, everything depends on the size of the fractions of the additional component. The larger they are, the more screenings are required. For grade 400, you need to add at least six buckets of screenings to one bucket of cement. The resulting mixture is stronger and is actually concrete, but the difficulty lies in the need to apply great effort when leveling, and small stones interfere with grouting. The pouring solution can be carried on a stretcher or in buckets and distributed over the surface between the beacons so that it slightly exceeds the height of the beacons. A shovel, hoe or trowel is used for leveling. Excess cement mortar is pulled off with a rule, moving the tool to the right and left. The rule must be constantly moistened, then the surface will be very smooth and even.Table of proportions of concrete components forusing grade 400 cement. The poured screed must be rubbed down the following day. This is done using a rubbing board or a float. If voids are found on the surface, they are filled with cement mortar and rubbed down after hardening. The final hardening of the screed requires 3 weeks. After drying, the concrete surface must be treated with a special primer so that it penetrates all pores and microscopic cracks. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and repeat the process. The primer should not dry for more than 24 hours, but less than 4 or 6 hours will not be enough. Return to contents</a>

    Polymer floors with own hands

    When the primer has formed a strong film,you can start pouring the polymer floor. It is better to make self-leveling floors together with a partner. The continuity of the process is important here, when one master dilutes the composition, and the other is engaged in pouring the mixture and rolling it with a roller. The solution is mixed using an electric drill with the necessary attachment. Information on how to prepare the mixture is always present on the packaging. Do not forget that the pouring must be done quickly, since after 40 minutes the solution will lose the necessary fluidity. The entire process of pouring a polymer floor is not difficult and consists of the following stages:

  • The prepared mixture is poured onto the surface of the base.
  • The squeegee supports the required layer thickness.
  • Using a spatula, spread the composition over the surface.
  • Use a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
  • The pouring starts from that side of the room,which is located at the opposite end from the entrance, and continue towards the doors. A portion of the composition is poured onto a 2 sq. m area and rolled with an aeration roller. The time interval between pouring portions should not exceed 10 minutes. After 3-6 hours, the self-leveling floors will finally harden. During this time, drafts and direct sunlight should not enter the room where the self-leveling floors are located. Uneven drying leads to a caramel effect, when a liquid solution remains under the upper solid layer. After 24 hours, if all the subtleties of the technology are observed, an even and beautiful surface is formed. If the result is satisfactory, the self-leveling floor can be varnished.

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