Before making a frame for plasterboard, you need to decide on the material from which it will be built. Plasterboard cladding is carried out on a metal and wooden frame.
Scheme of the device of the frame under the ceiling from plasterboard. Of them, the metal frame is more practical, although it is more expensive. Its advantages over the wooden one:
- not subject to decay;
- does not absorb moisture;
- Do not warp when moisture drops;
- has a more even surface.
However, a frame made of wooden slats is still very commonused for plasterboard cladding. The methods and techniques for making a frame for plasterboard from metal and wood are similar and can be considered in the same vein.
The device of a wooden skeleton
If a decision is made to produceframe made of wooden slats, it should be taken into account that the work can be carried out using guides, hangers and brackets, which are used for working with metal lathing. Their use will speed up and facilitate the work several times. The manufacture of the lathing begins with marking, and it is first done on the floor, then transferred to the walls and ceiling. The line marked on the floor using a plumb line is projected strictly perpendicularly onto the wall, then a mark is made along the entire height with a pencil using a ruler.
Types of profiles for plasterboard.If only the ceiling is to be covered with plasterboard, then the marking is done along the upper part of the walls. A water level and a painter's cord are used for this purpose. With their help, the horizon is beaten off along the walls, then the marks are transferred to the ceiling. A solid line is drawn on it with a pencil and a wooden lathing is attached along it. The distance between the beams is 0.4 - 0.6 m. Marking is the most important stage of construction, it should be given maximum attention. The quality of our ability to make a frame for plasterboard depends on how accurately we make the marking. After completing the marking, we proceed to the construction of the lathing from wood. The lath is located along the contour of the surface of the plasterboard fastening. When leveling the walls or making a partition, wooden slats are attached along the perimeter of the area. Making a suspended ceiling requires the placement of the strapping along the wall markings. Holes are drilled along the length of the block every 40 cm, then this block is applied to the marking line at the intended place of fastening. A nail is inserted into the drilled hole, a mark is made on the wall using a hammer. Having made such marks along the entire length of the block, we remove it, and according to the marks in the wall we drill holes and hammer in wooden dowels or plastic dowels for fastening the frame of the strapping under the plasterboard. A cord is pulled between the strapping blocks, which will serve as a standard for aligning the intermediate slats. Before use, the blocks should be treated with an antiseptic to protect against decomposition and harmful insects, if the slats for the lathing were made independently. The blocks are supplied to the retail network already treated with antiseptics. Return to the table of contents</a>
The lining from the metal profile
Scheme of a two-level ceiling.When installing partitions and leveling walls, as well as producing niches, the marking for the frame lathing begins on the floor. The frame for the drywall will be marked along it. The wall marking lines must be parallel, and the equidistance from each other should be equal to the pier in thickness and 40 cm in the area of \u200b\u200bthe drywall placement. When lathing the ceiling, we make markings along the wall lines, as with wooden lathing, only along the lines on the ceiling we attach hangers for the device of metal lathing. The distance between the racks is 60 cm, between the hangers along the length of the profile - 50 cm. Installation of the guide profile is carried out depending on the manufacture of the lathing for drywall, if this is a frame for walls, then it is installed along the lines on the floor and ceiling; if for the ceiling, then along the wall lines. We install and fasten the profile racks to the walls and ceiling. Using a grinder or metal scissors, cut the profiles according to size. Before making the frame, drill holes in the ceiling or wall for anchors and dowels at the marked locations. Attach the hangers and guides, attach the prepared profiles with screws. Bend the free ends of the hangers to the wall. You should know that when preparing the frame for a suspended ceiling, do not use plastic dowels. They cannot withstand the weight of the ceiling, and the screws come out, causing the ceiling to warp. Return to contents</a>
Oblacy for curly facing elements
Installation diagram for a single-level suspended ceiling.Before making a frame for the figured parts of the room cladding, you need to be able to work with the profile and drywall correctly. To do this, draw the desired element in full size on the installation site or on a sheet of drywall. Cut the side walls of the metal profile every 5 cm and bend it according to the drawing until the desired contour is obtained. Drywall can be processed for figured elements in two ways: dry and wet. Its thickness should not exceed 6 mm. When dry processing, the drywall is deeply cut with longitudinal cuts to the cardboard on the other side. A chamfer is removed from the cuts to adjust the bending angle. The steeper the bend, the greater the chamfer angle should be. After finishing the work, the element is attached to the template, and the chamfers are putty. The wet method of bending drywall, although it takes more time, is more accurately adapted to the figured element, and the work on it is less noticeable. Punctures are made on one side of the plane according to the template, approximately one third of the sheet thickness, every 2 cm. Wet the puncture sites with a brush until the bending site is completely soaked, until the plaster stops absorbing water. We attach the semi-finished product to the template, and in a day the sheet will take the desired shape and dry. Now you can attach it to the plasterboard frame. Return to contents</a>
How to make a lath for an arch?
Draw an arch on the surface of the plasterboardnatural size, apply the drawing to another sheet, align them and cut out the arch opening with a jigsaw. You will get two arch parts. Make markings on the wall and install the frame profile according to them. Several lines on the plasterboard arch parts are placed vertically, they will indicate the locations of the posts to strengthen the frame. Having imposed a profile on the lines applied to the plasterboard, we cut it to size according to the height of the arch. The lower end of the profile must be rounded to the diameter of the arch. We mount the guides, fix the profiles of the frame of the future arch. We measure the length of the semicircle of the arch with a tape measure and cut out a profile of the corresponding length. The sides of the profile are cut at intervals of 5 cm, bent according to the template and fastened with self-tapping screws to the arch frame. We cover the arch with previously prepared plasterboard parts. Materials and tools used:
- Screwdriver;
- Bulgarian;
- electric jigsaw;
- scissors for metal;
- cord;
- level;
- knife;
- perforator;
- a hammer;
- nails;
- self-cutters SMM 3,5 / 51;
- metal profile PN 28/27;
- hangers and guides;
- drywall;
- electric drill.
Insulation may be required.If the frame is made from wooden slats made independently, antiseptics are required to treat them to extend their service life; treatment with preparations against insects that breed in a favorable environment may also be necessary.
