Make a fluorescent lamp yourselfAlmost any craftsman who has an understanding of the basics of electrical engineering can do it with his hands during his leisure time. Lamps are available with different spectra, which allows you to install the most comfortable type of lighting.
If the factory lamp is not suitable for your aquarium, then do not rush to order it from a specialist, you can assemble it yourself.
Fixture for the aquarium with their own hands
To ensure the launch and further operationfor fluorescent lamps, a bulky but simple electronics system is required. You can also use a chokeless circuit in your work, it takes up much less space, but according to reviews, it is not very reliable. The resulting lighting device should be of such dimensions as to cover the entire upper part of the aquarium. This will contribute to less evaporation of water from it, and much less garbage will get into the covered aquarium. It will be difficult for the inhabitants to jump onto the floor.
Wiring diagram for a fluorescent lamp.The lighting of such a device will not be unpleasantly striking to the eyes, remaining locally above the aquarium. For the same purposes, you can use an ordinary lamp screwed into a reflector, but such a design can spoil the interior. To make a lamp specifically for an aquarium, you will need:
- fluorescent lamps;
- plexiglas;
- sealant;
- glue;
- wire with timer and plug;
- insulation tape;
- plastic for the frame.
Plastic, compared to metal or wood,has a number of advantages. It is not subject to corrosion and will not swell from moisture, will not rot over time, and its electrical safety is beyond doubt. It is quite easy to process and then clean this material. Return to contents</a>
Tips for making
The design of the lamp can be thought outindependently, or you can take as a model things previously invented by someone. A monolithic structure that can be removed entirely is not very convenient in everyday life. It is more convenient to make a frame with removable top covers. It is more reliable to make a two-layer frame around the perimeter, making the inner frame a supporting element and installing another, upper, decorative one on it. The outer layer should be wider than the inner one, since the top cover will be inserted into it, and from below it will cover the stiffening ribs, reaching the water. Electrics must be reliably insulated from water and accumulating condensate. This will save the owners not only from frequent electric shocks, but also from repairing the system. Sealed tips should be put on the ends of each lamp, saving their surface from contact with moisture. They are made from improvised means, such as cuffs or anthers from an old car. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the rubber retains its properties, does not crack, and periodically change them. A rectangle of plexiglass of the appropriate size is mounted to the frame at the bottom with glue, and a plastic cover with fluorescent lamps and a starting device fixed to it is installed on top. This cover should be easy to lift for repair and maintenance of the lamp. If the plastic of the cover is black, it is pasted over with white or reflective film on the inside, no manipulations are required with the white surface. The edge of the case, even with very careful fitting, will most likely protrude beyond the edge of the aquarium by at least 1-2 mm. These places need to be sealed, since a lot of condensation will accumulate there, which will need to be wiped off so that it does not flow down. For this, it is enough to apply a layer of silicone sealant to the edges of the aquarium, having previously degreased the glass.</ ul>
