Today you can find a lot of them on saletypes of cornices, differing from each other in material, design and method of fastening. The most popular among consumers are simple, busbar, round, telescopic and decorative cornices.
For light curtains, a single-rod curtain rod is suitable, but for heavy ones, you need to choose a more reliable design.
Nuances of choosing the console
When deciding how to attach the cornice, you need to followa certain algorithm of actions. First, you need to correctly measure the width of the room and the window opening located in it, otherwise you can buy a console that cannot be installed in the room due to an inappropriate length or width. It should be taken into account that for different types of cornices, the distance to the side walls and the ceiling can differ significantly. For light curtains, one-piece or divided into two parts, a single-rod round wall console suspended above the window is best suited, protruding with its edges beyond the window opening by 10-15 cm. Although, depending on the design solution, a console of this type can be attached not only to the width of the window opening, but also to the entire width of the wall, leaving only a small indent from the side walls. To attach the cornice to the wall, the kit includes 2 or 3 holders (depending on the length of the cornice).
The string cornice is the most inconspicuousa design that creates the effect of curtains floating in the air. It is made using eyelets or clamps connected to rings strung on the curtain rod. Removable tips are installed at both ends of the console, which, in addition to the decorative function, also act as a limiter, preventing the rings from sliding off the tube during the movement of the curtain. For light curtains, the long-used string type of console can also be used. A distinctive feature of this type and its fastening is the need to make the console as invisible as possible, so that the curtains seem to float in the air. There is also an option for attaching curtain rods directly to the window frame. For example, curtain rods for roller blinds are attached to the wall in this way. There are types that have only a side fastening, that is, this type of curtain rod can only be attached to opposite side walls. But, no matter what length the chosen curtain rod is and what method of fastening is used, there is one rule common to any fastening: the fixed curtain rod should not interfere with opening the window, therefore its fastening should not be lowered lower than 5 cm from the upper plane of the window opening. Also, curtains hung on the curtain rod should not catch on window handles, window sills and heating batteries located under them. In the case of fastening a multi-row curtain rod, measurements should be taken from the row closest to the window. Return to contents</a>
Installation of cornices
Tools for fastening the cornice.The fastening of any type of cornice to the wall should begin with marking and determining the fastening points. The appearance and reliability of fastening the cornice to the wall largely depend on the accuracy of this marking, so it is necessary to approach its implementation very responsibly. To perform the work, you will need the following tools:
- roulette;
- water level;
- electric drill or perforator;
- marker;
- screwdriver.
First, you need to measure the length of the console with a tape measure andmark it on the wall, checking its horizontality with a water level. If you have an assistant, you can do it easier: attach the rod to the wall and put two neat marks along its edges, connecting them with a horizontal line. Then, in accordance with the marked line, attach the mounting brackets sold in the kit to the wall and put marks for the holes. These marks must be symmetrical both in relation to each other and in relation to the adjacent walls. Then, using an electric drill or a hammer drill, make holes in the marked places in the wall.
Scheme of fastening the cornice to the wall.There is a nuance here: dowels will be inserted into the hole later, so for drilling you need to choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the dowel. The hole also needs to be drilled to the length of the dowel or 5-10 mm more. If the length of the rod attached to the wall is no more than 2.4 m, then 2 brackets are usually used; if the length is greater, it is advisable to install an additional bracket in the center of the rod. The most reliable way to attach the brackets to the wall is with screws. And only after securely fixing the brackets, you can attach the cornice to them. Return to the table of contents</a>
Features of fixing the cornice to the ceiling
For ceiling mounting, it is usually usedplastic or metal rails. This design of curtains allows you to make the cornice almost invisible, so today many people choose this particular mounting option. The console can be attached to the ceiling either using brackets or directly through the holes in the console itself. In the first case, the mounting technique completely repeats the technique of attaching the cornice to the wall. When attaching the console directly to the ceiling, there are some features that must be taken into account. Ceiling cornices of this type are usually sold in standard sizes, so you need to make the length of the cornice you need yourself by sawing it off with a hacksaw for metal from the workpiece. You need to put plugs for the holders on the ends of the sawed cornice.
Scheme of fastening of ceiling cornice.The first hole is drilled exactly in the middle of the cornice. It is drilled with two drills: first, a little larger than the diameter of the fastener cap, and when the hole is deep enough for the cap to sink into it, drilling continues, but with a drill of a smaller diameter. In the same way, holes are drilled along the edges of the ceiling cornice, with an indentation of 3-4 cm from the end, and then, maintaining a certain step, along its entire length. The heavier you plan to use curtains, the smaller the step of the holes should be. Then it's a matter of technique. Having applied the cornice to the ceiling at the right distance from the window, its axis must be adjusted so that it is symmetrical to the window. Then a mark is made on the ceiling through the drilled central hole. Then a hole is made in the ceiling along this mark with a hammer drill with a drill of the required diameter, a dowel is inserted into it and the ceiling rail is fixed with a self-tapping screw. This fixation allows you to adjust the position of the rail if necessary, after which the remaining holes are marked and drilled. After that, the cornice is fixed to the ceiling with dowel nails, and this completes its installation. Return to contents</a>
Little tricks of fixing
Reliability of fastening and beautiful appearanceThe installed console largely depends on the shape and material of the wall finish. If the wall finish leaves much to be desired or there is a concrete lintel above the window where the rod is to be installed, then wooden slats are used as an additional element of the fastening system. In this case, the slats are pre-attached to the wall, and the brackets are attached directly to them. If it is not possible to attach the cornices to the wall, they are attached directly to the ceiling. If the console kit, in addition to the brackets, also includes dowels and screws, then they should be used for fastening. Usually, in one room, it is desirable to place curtains at the same distance from the walls, which is facilitated by both the aesthetic preferences of the owners and the same brackets included in the console kit. If it becomes necessary to hang curtains at different distances (for example, to hide heating pipes), then you need to deviate from the rules and use brackets of different designs for fastening. In this case, the visual effect of symmetry can be achieved by hanging decorative curtains behind the curtains.
Scheme of the device of a ceiling cornice for curtains. Удерживающие кронштейны нужно крепить таким образом, чтобы торцы штанги входили в них на 3-4 см. При креплении на штангу штор, по одному кольцу нужно вынести на выступающие за крепежные кронштейны торцы штанг, тогда кронштейны, помимо основной задачи — надежно удерживать карниз, будут удерживать и края штор при зашторивании. Если планируется установить не только шторы, но и ламбрекен, то при установке консоли в обязательном порядке нужно оставить для него пространство между устанавливаемой консолью и потолком. Если же, из-за низкого потолка в комнате, такого пространства недостаточно, то от идеи закрепления ламбрекена лучше отказаться. Если планируется использовать шторы из тяжелого материала, то металлические и пластмассовые карнизы лучше дополнительно укрепить, установив удерживающие их кронштейны на расстоянии 1-1,2 м друг от друга. Если же приобретенный комплект консоли не имеет дополнительных креплений, то его монтаж можно выполнять на самодельные кронштейны или обычные уголки. При использовании уголков крепление получается даже надежнее, но проигрывает в эстетическом плане. Установка штор — процесс творческий и увлекательный. Хорошо зная, как крепить карниз к потолку или стене, вы, потратив немного свободного времени, без труда справитесь с этой работой, получив массу удовольствия от того, что, благодаря вашим усилиям, комната стала намного красивее и уютней. </ ul>
